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Sweet charity: why second-hand clothes shops are thriving

Sweet charity: why second-hand clothes shops are thriving

The humble charity shop is succeeding where others fail on the UK high street. Anna-Marie Crowhurst finds out why ‘chazzers’ are bucking the trend.

Something incredible is happening on the UK high street. According to a new report, while a (staggeringly depressing) 14 shops closed every day last year, some retailers managed, magically, to turn a profit. And one such retailer was the humble charity shop. Yep. As the headlines about the miserable state of UK retail continue to mount, charity shops are laughing – and expanding. That’s right, chazzers are kicking major retail ass!

There was a time when charity shops were just a hodge-podge of bric-a-brac, nylon and knitting patterns that no one bothered with. They took over shops abandoned by other retailers, an afterthought of the high street, mainly frequented by elderly women and the odd teenage goth.

Charity shops weren’t particularly cool, but they were the place to go if you wanted to feel the heady rush of scoring Roxy Music’s back catalogue on mint-condition 12in vinyl at only 10p a pop (Egham High Street, 1996) or fork out a trifling £3.99 for a delicious 1950s Bettie Page-esque leopard faux-fur coat (Leytonstone, 2002). Unless you were a vintage obsessive compulsive prepared to riffle through the racks, charity shops weren’t likely to yield too many gems.

British Red CrossBritish Red Cross. Photograph: Peter Langdown Photography_Copyr/British Red Cross

In the last 10 years all that has changed. Not only have the elderly women got wise to the value of “collectables” (curses), there are “retro rails” and rare book racks. The shops now include offshoot high-end specialist boutiques. They’ve had makeovers, laid wood floors, got to grips with the dark arts of “visual merchandising”. They’ve got websites and eBay shops and glamorous charity markets staffed by celebrities. They’ve got media partners. They look just like other shops. It’s not embarrassing to go into a charity shop any more.

Sarah Farquhar is head of retail operations for Oxfam, one of the charities which is leading the pack in the poshing-up stakes. She puts Oxfam’s success down to the increased number and diversity (age- and gender-wise) of their volunteers, as well as the spoils of a consumer boom. “So there’s more stuff!” And Farquhar says moving with the retail times is a no-brainer. “A heritage brand can become outdated if you don’t work hard to make (it) relevant to modern life.”

To this end, Oxfam has forged ahead with savvy media partnerships and initiatives – Farquhar mentions successful hookups with M&S and Sainsbury’s and a newish online eBay-esque site. Oxfam has long realised the importance of smartening up their shops, introducing an uncluttered standardised look back in the 70s.

British Red Cross: Vanity caseBritish Red Cross. Photograph: British Red Cross

Oxfam’s particular success story is the offshoot boutique. Farquhar says boutiques are chosen to fit the communities they are in; it began with the first Oxfam bookshop at Oxford St Giles 25 years ago simply because there was a glut of paperbacks among the dreaming spires. The whole boutique thing, she says, has grown from there. (Oxfam Books is nowthe biggest second-hand book retailer in Europe.)

Oxfam Originals in Manchester is a dedicated vintage store, which sells retro clothes from all over the country to appreciative students. The new snazzy Oxfam Boutiques, meanwhile, barely feel like second-hand shops, let alone charity ones, with their slick interior design and chic monochrome frontages. But, Farquhar is keen to point out, while the boutiques appeal to a new kind of customer, “the standard Oxfam shop is the backbone of what we do”.

The British Red Cross may not have boutiques, but it certainly staked its claim on the high street at the earliest – the first Red Cross shop opened in 1948. New business manager Diana Goss says the charity’s recent forays into specialist vintage branches are led by the interests and skills of their volunteers. “Our vintage and retro shop on Renshaw Street, Liverpool has a girl in her early 20s who runs the vintage section and she’s the one who makes it work.” The Red Cross has also recently opened an inaugural vintage-only branch in Shrewsbury.

I’ve always wondered if charity shops’ “retro rails” are the result of research or wild guesses (judging by the hilarious prices in some of them), but the Red Cross takes it pretty seriously. Goss says field managers are taken on vintage trails to markets like Spitalfields andCamden and prices are set according to “the tolerance of the town”.

Goss says the Red Cross is very aware of the design of its retail spaces, learning from mainstream retailers “without losing the charm or making everything look sterile”. And she defends the particular-to-charity-shops practice of “colour-blocking” when displaying garments. “Ha,” she says. “We get one of everything – and we have to make it look cohesive. Colour-blocking is our take on trying to make merchandising work.”

Retail director of the British Heart Foundation Mike Lucas is unsurprised about the findings of the report. “Yes, we actually opened shops last year… At the end of this financial year we will have opened 30 electrical and 10 standard shops. And we’ve closed very few. Last November, we opened our 700th store.” And the reason for such success? “Everyone likes a bargain when the economy’s tough,” he says simply.

Wendy Mitchell of the Charity Retail Association points out the trend in ethical and environmentally aware shopping could be a factor in chazzers’ success. “As well as contributing more than £200m to UK charities every year, they are environmentally friendly and provide around 17,000 jobs and 180,000 volunteering opportunities nationwide. So people are finding they can support a good cause and find a bargain at the same time.”

But Mitchell believes that while the big names are rolling out boutiques and bookshops, there is still space for the independent, classic style of chazzer. So there’s hope for good old-fashioned bargain-hunting yet.

Find your nearest charity shops on the Charity Retail Association website.


The Guardian, 28/03/12 

The British high street is dead – let’s celebrate

The British high street is dead – let’s celebrate

Most town centres are boring clones, and the closure of large retailers will open up creative space for quirky start-ups

The news that four out of 10 shops will have to shut in the next five years, casting further doubt on the future of the beleaguered British high street, need not be greeted with dismay.

There is no reason to be downhearted – we should embrace change. This could be very positive. My hope is that the disappearance of large retailers will provide an opportunity for young entrepreneurs to set up in affordable rental shop fronts and market units. I started my first fashion business, Red or Dead, in Camden market and Kensington market 30 years ago, and in many ways today feels like the early 80s and we are seeing a renaissance of a variation of the serendipitous market. In Wembley, north London, shops have closed on the high street and have been turned into multi-business outlets by the Asian community. In Gateshead, there are examples of creative communities getting together and attempting to reuse empty spaces such as the Shed project on Gateshead High Street where, working with the council, they have brought vibrancy back to this area of a town that was sinking fast. It has so successfully transformed a large, former bed retailer (the Bed Shed) that a second Shed will be opening soon.

But for any new-style high street to work requires good town centre planning and the cornerstone of this is common sense. Most of us want places that give us everything we need to fulfil our lives. Give us a town centre where we can live in an affordable home, walk, cycle or take easy public transport to employment, be able to go to the cinema, theatre, gallery, nightclub or gig, kick a ball in a park with our mates or our kids, read a book under a magnolia tree, maybe grow a bit of veg on an allotment, watch a bit of sport, while away the time at a cafe or a bar, shop at cool independent stores. We have to develop places that people want to see and be seen in. Most of us love people watching, get a buzz from other human beings. I don’t believe we want to do most of our shopping online, especially as we are spending more and more of our working lives in front of a screen.

Vancouver is a city that has got it right. It boasts a wonderful natural setting but it doesn’t rely on its natural beauty for liveability. Its commitment to the “green agenda” and the serendipity of being able to find independent cafes, second-hand vinyl record stores and vintage clothes stores right next to the big brands gives the city an ambience British cities have lost to the land value greed exerted by pension-fund landlords and short-sighted councils.

Closer to home, Copenhagen has ensured it hasn’t drifted towards the “clone town” status bestowed upon most indistinguishable British towns and cities. There are streets full of quirky start-up businesses next to chain stores and it has employed urban designers such as Jan Gehl to ensure the city is a joy to walk around and cars are relegated to fourth place behind walking, cycling (what a great cycling infrastructure they have established) and public transport.

But we can’t always wait for government to deliver the infrastructure. We have to “have a go” ourselves at making small shops work.

Our vision for the new-style high street will be on show at the pop-up high street at our vintage festival at Boughton House, Northampton, this July. The vintage high street is a place to promenade, shop, watch street artists, eat and drink and just sit and take in the magic of the high street, with the authenticity of a film set, in the middle of a wonderful landscape. But for our visions to become a reality in our towns and cities, we the consumers will have to frequent the galleries, cafes and new independent stores that rise out of the ashes of the tired old retail chains.


Wayne Hemmingway, Guardian, 22 March 2012

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The British high street: RIP

As HMV announces the closure of dozens of branches, and other big-name retailers continue to struggle, is the future for our town centres all Poundlands and betting shops?

Two and a bit years ago, it was the demise of Woolworths; this week, the predicament of the British high street has been reflected in the increasingly uncertain fate of HMV. Yesterday it emerged that British retail sales across the board had suffered their worst December since 1998. And in the wake of profit warnings and a plunging share price, HMV’s suppliers have been cutting back credit, debt advisers have been called in to look at the business’s finances, and 60 shops are now set for closure – including 20 branches of Waterstone’s, the once-thriving high street name that was folded into HMV in 1998, and may now be sold off. This week, a number of record companies announced that they would support the chain by leaving their trading terms unaltered, but the latter half of 2011 could be yet grimmer, because without the additional goodwill of the people who make DVDs, computer games and the rest, it will be almost impossible to build up stock before Christmas.

In response, as with Woolies, scores of voices have been dredging up their HMV memories. You will doubtless have your own: mine go back to the mid-1980s, and endless trips to the two branches on Manchester’s Market Street, where I would habitually buy 12in singles by the Style Council, and wonder whether to spend what money remained on the Redskins, Easterhouse or the Faith Brothers (don’t ask). Of late, as the music industry tumbles towards doom, I have been thrown by HMV’s decision to push music further and further towards the back of their shops in favour of more profitable lines, but have still been gripped by a regular urge to go inside in search of some unexpected musical discovery. Certainly, the idea of London’s Oxford Street without their two signature stores seems very strange.

Yet that may be where we are headed. In countless towns, and parts of our cities, the basic story is simple enough: first, the big chain stores saw off independent shops, but now they themselves are either ailing, or off somewhere else. The result, to use a phrase invented by the New Economics Foundation (Nef), is a passage “from clone town to ghost town”, driven by three factors, much more deep-seated than economic ups and downs, which point to the likely shape of the retail future. First, the rise and rise of the internet – 39% of CDs and 34% of DVDs are bought online, yet only a miserable 10% of HMV’s business happens there. Looking ahead, music, films and games – and, yes, books – will increasingly be downloaded rather than physically owned, and we’ll also see to even more of our personal finances and house buying online (according to the Ordnance Survey, between 2008 and 2011, the high street presence of building societies came down by 29%).

Second comes the ever-growing tyranny of the supermarkets, and third, the retail trade’s ongoing shift from the cramped environs of urban streets to places where the big names can stretch out and keep their customers captive. Increasingly, when you think of Boots or Next, you will not picture a standard-issue, high street shop, but a much bigger construction, either placed within a town centre “retail destination”, or plonked on a ring road in an American-style strip mall built around a vast car park. By comparison, the idea of walking down the street while doing your shopping looks quaint and inconvenient, and the likes of HMV find themselves laid lower and lower.

In February last year, Nef published figures for shop closures in the 12 months up to April 2009. The death of Woolworths accounted for 807 stores. The Stylo group, which owns the shoe chains Barratts and Priceless, had shut 220; 214 Celebrations card shops had gone, and another 125 shops had become empty thanks to the death of the misfiring entertainment chain Zavvi.

There was also bad news from chains such as JJB Sports (55 closed shops), the Officers Club (32), and good old Passion for Perfume (45), and since then, the great emptying-out of the high street has continued. Philip Green’s Arcadia group is set to close up to 300 shops, mostly less-than-sexy brands, such as Burton and Dorothy Perkins. The once-ubiquitous chain Game has announced that 90 of its branches are going.

Every six months, people from a research firm called the Local Data Company walk the streets of around 800 towns and cities and chronicle their fate. “There is a fundamental change happening,” says their business development director, Matthew Hopkinson. “I can’t prove it yet, but that’s my gut feeling.” He mentions plenty of ailing businesses, but also what’s happening to thriving chains. “The big retailers – the Nexts and the Topshops – are cutting their number of stores, and they’re going for big-box formats,” he says. “It’s cheaper to do business that way, and they don’t have to contend with councils. These are controlled environments.

“It’s best to have total control over what the consumer sees, smells and everything else. Because once you’ve got them under your roof, you can manipulate them until the cows come home. And on the high street, it’s very difficult to do that. That’s what the supermarkets have taught us.”

After decades of ceaseless expansion, talking again about how Tesco et al have strangled the high street might seem like a cliche, but as the so-called big four extend their business into lines once undreamed of, it’s easy to miss the potentially momentous consequences. “They’re not really supermarkets any more,” says Hopkinson. “They’re almost becoming mini-villages. You get your milk, bread and all your food, but Tesco is launching places where you can get your hair cut. It’s: ‘Buy your school uniform, go to the doctor – and if you come to us, you get your loyalty points, and it’ll be cheaper than anywhere else.’”

Among other consequences, this means the retail equivalent of the “squeezed middle”, and the likely survival of only those businesses that sit either side of it. “The quality, niche guys – like Burberry – have done bloody well, and the Poundlands and 99p Stores have done bloody well,” Hopkinson adds. “But if you’re in the middle ground, you’re right where the supermarkets are.” For proof of this polarisation, look at recent headlines about some of the few high street businesses that seem to be on the rise. Bookmakers are doing well, increasing their share of the high street over the last two years by 5%. Meanwhile, the 99p Stores chain recently announced that it wants to increase its shops from 138 to 600.

At the same time, an even more pernicious divide seems to be taking root. When I talk to Tim Danaher, editor of the trade magazine Retail Week, he makes a distinction between two kinds of place, and what tumult on the high street means for each of them. The essential divide, he explains, is between such urban centres as, say, Manchester, Bristol and Leeds, and much smaller places, which will feel the pinch: your Tauntons, Grimsbys, Barnsleys and Wrexhams.

“In our top towns, with a handful of exceptions, we’re getting to a stage where the focus of our high street is going to be on fashion,” he says. “But in the secondary towns, who knows? Value retail is growing, but it’ll only go so far. Beyond that, what’s there going to be?”

Empty shops, I suggest.

“Empty shops. That’s right.”

The first panic about increasingly gap-toothed high streets happened in early 2009. The recession was in full swing, and the average shop vacancy rate in towns and cities was forecast to rise to 15%. The independents that remained in urban centres were falling like flies, and the only businesses that were bravely announcing expansion were such titans as Asda, Subway and KFC. There was talk of empty shops being handed to artists, musicians and community groups: in April of that year, the government announced a £3m package to encourage precisely that – though its effects on most high streets seemed negligible.

Two years on, we’re supposedly out of recession, but the picture is still grim. The aforementioned 15% average vacancy rate will soon be passed, and in some places – such archetypal “secondary towns” as Rotherham and Margate are good examples – the figure is closer to a third. There are ongoing complaints about distant retail landlords, ever rising rents and the current business rates regime – although some people in the trade say there are glimmers of hope in the government’s localism bill, whereby councils will have powers to take a much more flexible approach to the last.

In the midst of all this change, one set of statistics has always chilled me to the bone. It comes from the work of a US academic named Kenneth Stone, who famously studied what happened when Wal-Mart moved into the state of Iowa. In the following decade, the state lost more than 555 grocery stores, 298 hardware stores, 293 building suppliers, 158 women’s clothing shops, 153 shoe outlets, 116 drug stores and 111 children’s clothing stores: in total, 7,326 businesses disappeared.

Is this where Britain is going? At Nef, Elizabeth Cox has been examining the fate of our high streets for eight years; looking ahead, she sounds a little more upbeat than I expected: “We’re not America, are we? That’s the worst-case scenario, and we have to heed that warning. But I think there is more opposition to that vision in the UK, and people are trying to do something different.” That said, she agrees that the current moment is fraught with danger: “It’s about whether people see this as an opportunity to build something different, or they say, ‘We’re doomed, and we’ll leave these places closed down’. That’s the fork in the road at which we’ve arrived.”

So what will the high street look like in, say, 2030?

“It’s going to be full of services, and social aspects,” says Hopkinson. “It’ll be full of hairdressers, tanning salons, cafes and restaurants. There might be doctors and dentists there. And it’ll become very leisure-focused. If there’s an area where people like the architecture, and they can socialise, and not just shop, that’s what will happen. You’ll get a place where people will go for community.”

That, I suggest, sounds rather optimistic. What of the more blighted areas of Britain, where there simply isn’t the money to sustain that kind of vision?

“That’s where you’ll get the analogy of Shitsville, Tennessee,” he says. “If you haven’t got nice buildings, or any events, or any reason to go there unless you live or work there, you’ve got a problem.”

Welcome, then, to one very depressing vision of the future. Lattes, book festivals, and high-end casualwear if you’re lucky; pound shops, Ladbrokes and boarded-up businesses if you’re not. If 21st-century Britain often feels like two countries, we may not have seen the half of it.


Taken from The Guardian, 22/01, John Harris

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